Lighting Talk at Lichfield Dolls House Club

On Wednesday (20th July) I travelled down to Staffordshire to do a talk / demonstration on lighting dolls houses at Lichfield Dolls House Club.

I arrived a bit early to avoid any problems on the M6 and was very kindly hosted by their president Gaynor.  It turned out to be a baking hot day so not having to sit in a car park for an hour was very much appreciated!

I knew a couple of the ladies already from previous talks / workshops and having done a few of these now I was a lot less nervous than I used to be!

Talking about LEDs.

 I gave an introduction to LEDs and why they're great for dolls houses and other model projects (don't get hot, last a lifetime and very efficient) and then showed quite a few examples of different types of LEDs and how they can be used, as well as some of the advances in technology using programmable microchips that allow for more impressive lighting effects such as my Lighthouse Beacon and remote control switching on and off of lights in a dolls house.

I then gave a demonstration on using one of my kits to light a 1/48th dolls house and I think I convinced a few of the ladies that it's a lot easier than they thought.

1/48th Bluebell Cottage lit during the demonstration

I really enjoyed my visit and would like to thank the ladies again for inviting me and supporting my business.
Thanks also to Paul for taking the photos during the evening.

Jennifer,

Model Railways: Running Flashing LEDs from DCC power

LEDs require a stable DC power supply (Direct current) (apart from a few special LEDs). This means the current only flows in one direction and it’s a very stable supply. Mains power is AC (Alternating Current) and that flows back and forth very rapidly. 

Flashing LEDs have a small inbuilt chip to make them flash and they are very sensitive to instability in current or not enough current so occasionally they cause problems. Typically, they will light up but not flash.
If you find your 12v flashing LED won’t flash I can guarantee it will flash if hooked up to a 9v PP3 battery. This is because battery power is incredibly stable. 

DC output transformers convert AC into DC usually via a full wave bridge rectifier and this is usually sufficiently stable to run flashing LEDs but occasionally you can get problems. This is especially prevalent with DCC power supplies because their output can be less stable and is more akin to AC. LEDs are sensitive to reverse polarity so with DCC is essential to use a bridge rectifier between the power supply and the LEDs to stop any reverse polarity. Bridge rectifiers only allow current to flow in one direction. 

I’ve never used DCC power supplies but a customer found that his Belisha Beacons wouldn’t flash when used with 12v and 14-15v DCC power supplies but when we worked out the problem he provided the following diagram and information for the benefit of others. 

“Most transformers that say they are DC are full wave rectified and produce a saw tooth voltage, which the led does not like. 

The answer is to put a smoothing capacitor across the output, before the led. I found that a 2200uF 35V electrolytic worked perfectly. It smooths out the rough DC to a near perfect straight line and the beacons happily flash away.” 

I hope this is helpful

Jennifer, 

Tutorial - Miniature Trees, Bushes & Topiary

Following on from my last tutorial on curved fencing (click here if you missed it) I am now going to look at making trees and bushes from Seamoss and topiary ball trees.  This tutorial is applicable to all scales if sizes are adapted to suit.

Seamoss Trees & Bushes

Seamoss Tree in 1/48th Scale

Seamoss is a natural plant material that is very useful for making trees in 1/48th or railways scales and also bushes in 1/48th, 1/24th. 1/12th scales.

It naturally forms branching structures so it's a bit easier to use than wire where you have to shape it yourself but is fairly fragile so care must be taken when handling.  If branches break off you can glue them back on with tacky glue or superglue.

Step 1:  Seamoss has little leaves on it which need to be gently removed with tweazers.  You can also remove or reattach any broken branches and shape as required.  Trimmings can be used for bushes and small plants.  If you want a thicker trunk you can add a bit of air dry clay or even pieces of masking tape to the lower truck before painting.

Seamoss with leaves removed and trimmings kept

Step 2:  Seamoss is naturally a yellow colour so it's best to first spray it brown with spray paint.  I have used a mid brown by Humbrol.

Spray painting the sea moss

Painted Seamoss Tree

Step 3: Add scatters.  I have chosen to use fine scatters in a mix of light and dark green.  The dark green is applied first and goes on the underside of the branches to add depth and shadow.  The light green goes on to the upper side and branch tips to show fresh growth.

First give a good coat of hairspray which enables the scatter to 'stick' to the seamoss.  Any cheap hairspray is fine or you can use artists matt spray sealer.

Sprinkle on the scatters.  I recommend doing this over a tub /container so you can keep the rest to reuse.

It's a good idea to use an old paintbrush to carefully remove scatter stuck to the truck or branches where it doesn't look natural.

Once you are happy spray the tree with spray adhesive and then another coat of hairspray to help the scatter stick.  Spray adhesive is quite good for seamoss because it's more fragile so doesn't risk breaking any branches etc.
The alternative is a mix of 4 parts water to 1 part PVA and a drop of washing up liquid in a clean garden or household sprayer but I find you struggle to get a fine enough mist for the seamoss.

If there's any bits where scatter hasn't stuck you can dip into PVA glue and apply scatter that way.

Leave to dry.  Once dry it should be pretty robust as the glue helps firm up the structure.

Tip: Seamoss can also be used for larger trees if you break down the pieces and use the smaller pieces as finer branches on a wire tree or other model tree framework.

Bushes:  Bushes are done in the same way but you can also use a brightly coloured scatter to suggest flowers.
In this example I've use a fine green scatter with yellow through it.

Seamoss Bush

Seamoss Flowering Bushes

Materials Required:
Links provided where I sell the item

Seamoss
Scatters in dark and light green
Hairspray or artists matt sealer
Spray adhesive or PVA glue (thinned)
Tweezers
Brown matt spray paint



Topiary Ball Trees

Topiary ball trees can be made for any scale.  Just select the appropriate size polystyrene ball.  Here I've made 1/12th scale ones using 20mm balls (25mm would also be suitable) and 1/48th scale ones using 10mm balls.

1/12th Scale Topiary Ball Tree

Step1: Glue a cocktail stick into the hole of the polystyrene ball - leave loose for 1/48th scale as we will replace with wire at the end and leave to dry.

Step 2: Paint the polystyrene balls brown using acrylic paint.  I used DecoArt crafters acrylic in chocolate.  Leave to dry.

Polystyrene balls painted brown

Step 3: Spread PVA or tacky glue over the ball, trying to get as even as possible.  It can be thinned slightly if required but you don't want it running off!

1/12th scale ball with glue

1/48th scale ball with glue

Step 4: Mix together two tones of green scatter.  A dark and light green works nicely in a medium/course grade for 1/12th scale and a fine grade for 1/48th scale.

The dark green is the older growth and the light green represents the fresh growth.

Sprinkle over the glue covering all areas.  It's best not to touch the ball as the scatter will stick to your finger rather than press to the ball.  You can add more glue and scatter afterwards as required.

Mix of fine scatter for the 1/48th scale ball

Applying scatter to the 1/48th scale ball

Spray with hairspray to help hold the scatter and then leave to dry.  I find a bit of polystyrene is good to stick them into or you could use blue tack or similar.

You should end up with something like this:

1/48th Topiary Ball Tree - after scatter

Once dry you can add additional scatter with drops of glue in any bare patches.

For the 1/48th scale topiary ball trees I used some florists wire twisted together for the trunk.

1/48th Topiary Ball Trees

I still need to get a pot for each of these!

Materials Required:
Links provided where I sell the items

Polystyrene balls (I have these, just need to update the website so please ask if you'd like some)
Green scatters
PVA glue
Cocktail stick or paper covered florists wire
Brown acrylic paint
Hairspray or artists matt sealer


I hope you have enjoyed the tutorial and find it of use.  More tutorials coming soon.

Jennifer,

Tutorial - Curved Fencing

Following on from the launch of my landscaping materials last week I thought I'd do a quick tutorial on how easy it is to bend it to create curved fencing.

If you want to create that unique look not possible with standard plastic or wood fencing then this is the tutorial for you!

The wood pulp board used for the fencing is a very versatile and unique product.  It doesn't separate into layers like matt board or cardboard and comes in various thicknesses.  It's also suitable for laser cutting meaning it's easy to create intricate designs that don't break the bank.

One of the killer features of this board is it's ability to be curved and then retain that curve once dry.  I've already used it successfully on a previous collaboration with Quernus Crafts for Christmas.

Curved Fencing Example

So without further ado...

Tutorial:

Step 1:  Find a suitable sized container that has the right sized diameter for the curve you want to make.

Step 2:  Take your piece of fencing and using your fingers, dampen both sides with water.  It shouldn't be dripping, don't run it under the tap, just enough to dampen the surface.  Shake off any excess.

Step 3:  Starting at one end, carefully bend the fence around the container, working your way around and then hold in place with an elastic band.  I used the top off a ear bud tub that I use for holding paint etc.

Dampened fence curved round container and held with elastic band

Step 4:  Set aside and leave to dry.  Should only take an hour.

Step 5:  Take off the elastic band and you should have a curved fence.

Dry and curved fencing

Step 6:  Paint in the colour of your choice.  I used Decoart Crafters Acrylic and one coat of black was enough.  White may need 2 coats.  You can leave it natural or stain for a wood effect if you wish.

Painted curved Fence

Painted curved Fence

Step 7:  Glue in position using PVA glue.  Wood glue or tacky glue are best.  There is flexibility in the fence so you can tweak the curve a little if you need to.

Fence posts and a gate are provided so panels can be joined together at corners.

And that's it!  Simples!

Hope you enjoyed the tutorial,

Jennifer,

Tutorial - Making Modern Strip Lights

It's been a fairly busy start to the year which is why I've not had a chance to update my blog until now. Hopefully you will enjoy another tutorial.

I was asked at the end of last year about making modern strip lighting, the type with a fluorescent tube with a cover which are found in all kinds of modern businesses from offices to dentists surgeries.  I mention dentists surgeries because thats what the lady (who wishes to remain anonymous) was making.  A 1/12th (Inch) scale room box dentists surgery.  Since then I've also provided the same lighting for a 1/12th scale shed/workshop.

The easiest and cheapest way to create strip lighting is to use flexible strip LEDs and use vellum to create the cover.  Vellum is a type of heavy paper, a bit like tracing paper, which comes in lots of colours and patterns and is used mainly for card making and scrap booking but is ideal to use with LEDs because the plain vellum is semi-opaque and as well as looking like a strip light cover, it also acts as a diffuser.

First off here's what it will look like!  Yes, this is a model and not the real thing!

Strip Lights in a 1/12th scale Dentists Surgery

Strip Lights in a 1/12th scale Dentists Surgery

Tutorial

Step 1:  Choose the size of flexible LED strip you wish to use and also the colour.  For the tutorial I have used a 3 LED white strip but the photos above show a 6 LED strip in warm white.
Pre-wired LED strips can be bought in my shop if you have your own vellum but I now also have a strip light kit available with vellum included.  If you would like the 9v version you will need a battery snap.

Pre-wired flexible LED strip

Step 2:  Cut a piece of thick card or mountboard 2mm longer than your LED strip.  For the 3 LED strip this would be 52mm long x 8mm wide.  (The strips are all 8mm wide).

Mountboard or card strip

Step 3:  Peel off the cover from the back of the LED strip to reveal the double sided tape and stick the LED strip onto your piece of card or mountboard.

LED strip stuck onto mountboard 

Step 4:  Mark out a rectangular box on your piece of vellum following the design of the template below.  You want the box to be 8mm wide and 8mm high.  The further away the vellum is from the strip the less the LEDs look like "spots".

Vellum template

Following the template above mark out your 3 strips 8mm wide.  Mark 8mm in from the end, then 52mm long (or length of LED strip) and then another 8mm for the other end.

Score along the lines with a pair of scissors being careful not to score too deep as the vellum will tear easily if scored deeply.  Snip the two ends from the outer edge into the fold line so they can be folded in to form the box end like so:

Vellum template ready for folding

It should then look like this:

Vellum box diffuser for strip light

The ends are stuck with small squares of double sided tape.  Fold the two outer pieces in and then the middle piece over the top so it is on the outside.

Step 5:  Decide where you want to place your lights and drill a 4-4.5mm hole in your ceiling.  Just enough for the wires to fit through.  Feed the wires through the hole and stick the LED strip in place with double sided tape or glue.  Keep the strip as close to the hole as possible (see photo in step 6).

Hole in ceiling for wires

Step 6:  (Optional)  If you wish you can cut an additional strip of vellum 8mm wide by the length of the LED strip and stick it on with small pieces of double sided tape to make an additional diffuser.

LED strip fixed in position

Step 7:  Fit the box over the LED strip.  It will be a snug fit but to fix in in place run some glue along the edge of the card / mountboard base and hold until stuck.  Use sparingly.  UHU or similar clear glue is best as most glues will show through vellum.  You may want to test your glue on a bit of scrap first.

NB:  You will probably need to snip away a bit of the box end for the wires to fit if you are not fitting a false ceiling.

Vellum cover fixed in place over LED strip

Step 8:  Test out your lights!  Connect to a 12v regulated transformer or you can also use a 9v battery (the LEDs will be a bit dimmer).

Modern strip light

Final touches:  The wires as they enter the hole can be painted to match your ceiling.  Any matt emulsion or acrylic craft paint will do. 

The wires can be hidden in a groove in the floor above and then taped over with masking tape ready for your flooring of choice.

The other option is to fit a false ceiling.  This could be a piece of mountboard, foam board or thin wood with a slot cut out for the strip light so the wiring is hidden underneath.  It is best to fit a false ceiling before fitting the vellum box over the top.

The you can sit back and enjoy your lights!

Strip lights in model dentists surgery

I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial.  If you have any questions I'm happy to help.

My thanks to M from Stornoway for providing the photos of her lights in her dentists surgery.

Buy strip light kits

Best wishes,

Jennifer, 

How to connect the strips to a transformer or 9v battery:

It is common for more than one strip to be used in a room so there are a few options:

a) If you are using copper tape the strips would be soldered on directly. 

b) You can chose to have the strips wired with standard dolls house white wire which could then be wired into a standard dolls house plug and socket strip. You would need one plug per LED strip in this case and please check with me to make sure your transformer won’t exceed it’s capacity (eg a 6 LED strip is 0.04amps).

c) If the transformer comes with a 2.1 mm socket, I sell connectors that plug into the transformer directly but have a connector block on the other end so you can wire in multiple lights to the same transformer without needing a socket strip.  To purchase connectors click the link: connectors

d) If you wish to use a 9v battery you will need a battery snap.  You can also choose to have an mini on/off switch with your battery snap.  To purchase battery snaps click the link: Battery snaps

I recommend using no more than 2 LED strips per 9v battery to prevent it running out too fast. LEDs will be slightly dimmer with this option.

Hope that helps. 

This tutorial is for personal use only and must not be made for sale or commercial purposes.  

All text and photos copyright of JS Miniatures.

Tutorial: Installing LED Spotlights in a room box

I have had a few inquiries about ceiling spotlights recently and one of my customers has successfully installed them in a modern art gallery shop box to display her miniature paintings so I thought it was the ideal opportunity to do a quick tutorial to show how easy and effective they are!

Firstly, this is the interior of Hazel's finished room box.  She wanted to create a modern art gallery that was well lit with even lighting which would show her paintings to best effect.

I suggested using 3mm high brightness LEDs with clear lens clips which hold the LED in place and also act as a diffuser, spreading the light and making it very even  (Standard round top LEDs normally produce a spotlight effect).

Finished art gallery with LED spotlights

Close up of LED spotlights

 Based on her requirements I did a couple of tests with a cardboard box of similar size to her room box and that gave a light spread of about 3 inches per LED meaning they can be spaced at 6 inch centers (150mm) to provide even lighting.
I drew up the plan below in CAD.  It shows the LEDs at 6 inch centers (150mm) and Hazel also wanted three additional LEDs for the shop windows and the front door.

CAD plan for layout of LED spotlights

For the clear lens clips the best way to install them is to mark out your layout on the exterior of your room or room box and then drill 4.5mm holes at each location.
Depending on your room or box you can either make grooves for the wires using a dremel, or by hand.  You can then secure the LED and wires in place with masking tape over the top or, if you don't want to make grooves you can just stick the wires down with masking tape and cover with your flooring or roof material the same as you would usually do with lighting wires.

The clips are designed for 3mm thick material but this can be worked around by drilling a slightly larger hole (ie 4.5mm) and if necessary, the clips can be glued in position with tacky wax or superglue or similar.  Just a tiny drop in the hole to secure.  I find the clear clips tend to hole pretty firmly though without glue.

Clear lens clips  - installed in a ceiling (demo)

Once the clear clips are in position you simply push the LED into the clip until you hear a 'click'.  It's best to have one finger on the 'spotlight' so the clip doesn't get pushed out of the hole.

Once you have positioned all the wires you should then have something like this:

External view of room box roof showing LED wiring in grooves

Once the LEDs and wiring are installed you can connect them up to your power supply.  In this case all the LEDs are powered off a 3 volt, 2 x AAA battery kit.  The 3 LEDs in the shop frontage were powered off a separate 2 x AAA battery kit so the front can be easily removed.  A small connector block was used to connect the LED wires to the battery wires.  It ensures a good connection and makes wiring very simple.  No soldering required.  This makes it a very effective but simple solution and ideal for portability.

This was a very large room box - the Victorian Shop Box kit from the Dolls House Builder which is 23" L x 16" W x 12" H (590 x 400 x 298mm) which is a huge shop!  The entire spotlight kit including 11 pre-wired LEDs, 11 clear lens clips and 2 AAA battery kits only cost £30 so it's a fairly cost effective solution.

The LEDs were wired with the white wire found in all dolls house lighting which has the advantage of being flat and so very neat to hide but it is slightly more expensive than the standard red & black wire I can also supply.

Other clip options include black ring clips or brass or nickel metal 3mm eyelets.  Top row shows each clip with a 3mm LED installed.  Lower row is the clips on their own.

Spotlight clip options

If you'd like to read more about the creation of Hazel's Art Gallery with lots of finished photos including the shop frontage, click on the link: Hazel Rayfields Art in Wax Blog.

I'd like to thank Hazel for allowing me to use the photos of her finished art gallery.

I hope it's a useful tutorial and perhaps inspires you to try something similar.

Jennifer,

***UPDATE***

If you would like to try your own spotlight ceiling you can purchase a ceiling kit here:
Ceiling Spotlight Kits

There are three options to suit different sizes of project or room.

This tutorial is for personal use only and must not be made for sale or commercial purposes.  All text and photos copyright of JS Miniatures.